It had gotten into my head that a bike was the best way to see Taroko Gorge—a car too cumbersome, a scooter too dangerous, and too far to hike. I couldn't find anyone to take me to the top, so I prepared to do it the hard way. I started before dawn in Hualien, took the train to the gorge mouth at Xincheng, and started out. The early morning was cool with a heavy overcast, perfect for bicyling uphill.
The human presence–in typical Taiwanese fashion–sometimes blended with the scenery, and sometimes didn't. I made good progress as the other visitors cheered me on from their cars.
The clouds and jungle made big views rare, but there was one pedestrian bridge across with a good vantage point.
So I focused on the details; marbled rock and torquoise water.
PS: Biking back down wasn't particularly fun. It was getting dark, I didn't have complete confidence in the rental bike's brakes, and it required total concentration and disregard for the beauty around.